Gucci's 40s glamour evokes adventurous spirit

MILAN

Introduced an aviator theme this month with gender-blurring tweed coats, a bottle green flying jacket and knee-length pants over long boots that seemed straight off a black and white movie set.
But the look was not so much dashing aviator masculinity, as a sultry, sexy heroine, with models' glossy hair worn long and wavy, their pale complexions marked by dramatic deep red lips.

Her inspiration, the Italian designer said in the show's style note, had been Lee Miller, the "trailblazing" model and photographer including for Vogue during World War II.
"She was a pioneer -- talented, passionate and fashionable, just like strong women of today."
For day time, Giannini offered mini dresses in filmy fabrics, skinny pants that wrinkled at the ankles, jackets and coats, and often a high waistline for a lean silhouette.
Dramatic eveningwear was a choice of sweeping 1940s black gowns punctuated by stunning details, such as a copper-colored belt, sweetheart neckline or glittering shoulder embellishment.

Colors ranged from dark and dusky, in rose pink, plum and violet, to bright flashes of shocking pink and marine blue.

Models stepped out in ankle-strap wedgies, in patent or satin, to echo the clothes, carrying slouchy bags or a rounded tote. Other accessories included long mittens or two-tone gloves and marmot hats fastened under the chin.

The whole look was wrapped up in casual style with cotton canvas belts.
When the decor opened up concertina-like on Antonio Marras' catwalk to reveal the black and white facade of an Italian villa, it set the scene for his delicate, but not fragile, approach to dressing.

Well that a wrap....

Catch ya next time

CJ Henderson www.azanifashion.com